No Bird Brain, This Lady- Part I

Outside of checking nursery websites that claim to carry "unusual" plants and planning for the annual changes in my garden what's a Chicago horticulturist got to do in February? The snow isn't that deep at the moment, but the temperature is brutal. Competition at my bird feeder is pretty fierce as well.

Bird feeding is one of America's favorite hobbies. As I look out at the amazing diversity at my feeder I realize my knowledge of what I'm doing for my birds is pretty superficial. That's when I turned to Mary Francis Forde, Chalet's bird product buyer, for more info. Mary Francis was an educator for 28 years,  in garden center sales for 11, and bird product buyer for the last five years. I want to share what I learned from her in a recent sit-down chat. Wow, what I didn't know about bird feeding could fill a few blog posts. And guess what? It's going to :)

Tony: Mary Francis, what should someone new to "birding"consider when buying their first feeder?
MF: What's their motivation? What birds do they want to attract? What season are they going to feed? Fall and winter, or year 'round? What are the physical considerations for feeder placement? Are they placing it from: a tree branch, a hanger, off a railing?

Downy Woodpecker getting his fat ration

Tony: So, if you wanted to make an immediate impact for winter what would you suggest?
MF: Consider getting a suet feeder. Don't overlook the birds' need for fat and protein in the winter. Suet is a great way to provide vital calories needed to replace what they're burning just to stay warm. The new "no melt" suet formulations have a long shelf life in all kinds of weather without becoming rancid.

Robins love insect-embedded suet!

Tony: I notice there are a lot of choices in the suet cake selection- different seed types embedded in them.
MF: You bet. Did you notice the one with insect larvae in it? It's a great one to make life easier for overwintering robins. They love it!

So many great feeder options nowadays

Tony: There are so many cool feeders now, too. You can have a specialty feeder (like niger, sunflower, peanut or a general feeder). Please share what you were saying about niger thistle.
MF: Niger is a strong draw for finches, chickadees and doves as most seedheads are "grazed out" by now, so they're looking for food sources. Be aware that most male finches won't be showing color now so don't assume (from a distance) that you're just getting sparrows.

Tony: When you have a wide range of choices and prices (like anything in life, by the way) I'm always suspicious of the, shall we say politely, the "value product". Based on what I see researching wild bird seed there's a big difference in what you get for your money.  
MF: I would agree. The label must show the % of protein, fat and fiber as well as the sources. But, it isn't required to show the % of each type of seed in the bag. Birds need high protein and fat, NOT fiber. Fillers are high in fiber, which would be corn and millet.

Tony: I'm fascinated by the idea that birds test their seed before they eat it. Please share that.
MF: Through my reading I learned that in the same way a human can look at a peanut in the shell and know how many nuts are in it, a bird does something similar. They take a seed in their beak and can tell by weight if it's fresh, whole or insect-infested. If it's not fresh it ends up on the ground.

Your birds will be the happiest in the 'hood

Tony: Nature is just so cool. I had no idea they did that. What's your opinion of Cole's bird seed? People (and birds) must love it since it's a top seller. I use their "Blue Ribbon", and am so happy with the feathered diversity it brings to my garden. It seems like I get everything good, with very few sparrows. No cards or letters from sparrow enthusiasts, please. They're aggressive, territorial, and either eat everything in the feeder in one afternoon or throw it out on the ground.
MF: You're preaching to the choir on sparrows there, brother. There's a reason for Cole's popularity. It absolutely is a top quality line with a very low percentage of "fill" seed. It's treated with nitrogen gas prior to being sealed to kill grain moths. Then it's vacuum sealed, again to reduce any likelihood of grain moths infesting the seed. If unopened, Cole's seed has a three year shelf life. As you know they have a wide range of mixes, but they're more protein and fat-based with lower fiber than a lot of what's out there.
And since you mentioned it you might consider switching from their "Blue Ribbon" to "Special Feeder" for the fall and winter. The primary difference is "Special Feeder" contains raw peanuts and pecans in the mix for extra protein and fat.

Tony: Mary Francis has a lot more to share, so stay tuned for Part II.      

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Just Right for Low Light

Building on the earlier "Life Saving Houseplant Resolutions" post let's ensure a winning start in 2016.

Some of us go plant shopping with a specific site in mind. Some of us shop, fall in love with a particular plant ("It's talking to me" as one of my favorite clients says), buy it, and then put it in a spot where it will look good. Neither process is wrong, but we need to concede that houseplant success begins by matching the light in our desired site with getting a bead on the plant's light needs.

Think about it. If the tropical plant you're lusting after has evolved for hundreds of thousands of years on the jungle floor in the shade of its taller plant neighbors, it's probably not keen on direct sun. The converse is true, too. The cactus or succulent that loves to be bathed in sun is probably going to be sulky in a windowless room.

That being said the most challenging sites are the really low light ones: off to the side of a north window, an east exposure with heavy window treatments, an interior office with no natural light. You get the idea. So, assess the quality of light (direct, indirect, bright, really dark) in your room. Go for the worst case scenario. On a sunny day in our Chicago winter what are the light conditions? Is there direct sun? How long is it even bright? Thirty minutes, an hour, all afternoon? Be honest and don't fudge the answer. This reality check will determine your plant's future success.

So, what are some good candidates for a low light scenario? Below are five houseplants that will tolerate the dark corners and recesses of your home sweet home and still maintain an acceptable appearance.

Chinese Evergreen - Aglaonema
Sparkling Sarah

Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) - Hybridizers have done wonders taking the dark green leaves and developing wonderful splashes and blotches of cream, silver green, even rosy shades that really add interest to a dark room. Keep Chinese Evergreen away from cold drafts that accompany doors opening to the outside.

Mother-in-law's-tongue - Sansevieria

Sansevieria (Mother-in-law's Tongue) - Whether the cute compact rosette forms or the taller (to 24"+) upright varieties, this is an iron-clad standard of tolerance to almost any adverse condition you present. Just don't overwater and it will thrive.

Peace Lily - Spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily) - Foliage resembles the spear-like leaves of Chinese Evergreen, except the leaves are glossy green, rather than matte. It will provide a bonus of white sail-like flowers that last for weeks before turning pale green. No direct sun - ever. Prefers to be evenly moist. You may want to try 'Domino', a variety that has wonderful white splashes on the leaves.

Palms - Lady and Areca are best

Palms- Explore the world of palms and you'll find a number of species that will be quite happy in low light. I especially like Lady or Areca palms for those situations. These will generally be taller plants placed on the floor for height. They'll endure temperatures that are cooler than some other tropicals will tolerate.

ZZ plant - Zamioculcas

Zamioculcas (ZZ plant) - It looks prehistoric (in a good way) to me. After a year of growing it I'm a big fan! It's so easy. It's on the far side of a room away from an east window. It's in a 10" pot that I water once a month. My ZZ is producing lots of new stems. That's surprising to me as I tend to expect ultra-low maintenance plants to be slow growing.

So, if you're one of those people lacking strong light and the proverbial "green thumb" give some of these winners a chance. If they don't make the grade, it's time to think "silk".             









  

Life-Saving Houseplant Resolutions

I've been told confession is good for the soul. So, I'll admit I've made (and broken) New Year's resolutions at one time or another. The gym three times a week. Actually, I've never even considered that one. The low-carb, no sugar diet. Uh-huh. Quitting smoking (fortunately, not one I ever needed). What about resolutions that will ensure great results with your houseplants? No, it's not one you ever hear, is it?

I will choose the right plant. Hello ZZ

Resolution #1 - (Raise your right hand as you swear) I will not put an indoor plant requiring high light (like a Ficus) in a north window and then be shocked when it drops its leaves. Instead, I promise to get a plant that matches my true light conditions, dramatically increasing my plant's chances for survival. For those really low light areas in my home or office I will consider: Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Peace lily (Spathiphyllum), palms and the ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia). I'm really loving this low maintenance "camel" now that I'm growing it.

Resolution #2 - I will water completely, but at intervals that are appropriate for the plant's specific needs. Surprise! Watering once a week is not a universally correct answer to the question, "How often should I water?"

I will remember to empty the saucer

I understand "completely" means applying warm water (not hot, not cold) uniformly around the soil until water runs out the bottom of the container. After 30 minutes (no longer than that) I will empty all remaining water from the saucer. This will prevent the excess water from cutting off vital oxygen to roots and killing them. If I think it's time to water, but I'm not sure, I'll wait another day or two before I do. This reinforces the old maxim, "I can always add water, but if I've over-watered I can't remove the excess."

I will use a pebble tray and cluster plants in groups

Resolution #3 - I will try new ways to increase indoor humidity rather than just misting leaves with a spray bottle. Smart. More long term solutions would be: using the "buddy system" of grouping your plants together. As they give off water through their leaves (transpiration) they're increasing humidity around each other. Another solution would be to place plants on pebble-filled trays with water just below the pebble surface for evaporation. The bottoms of the pots should sit above the water, not in it, so they don't wick water into the soil. Right hand still up?

I will feed only when I see new leaves or flower buds

Resolution #4 - I will not fertilize year 'round if I don't see new growth. I'll fertilize when spring rolls around or when I see my plants actively producing bright green young leaves and/or new flower buds. The more light my plants receive, the more frequently I can fertilize them.

If my plants are in low light sites (north windows) I won't fertilize at all November through perhaps March when our day length and light intensity are so low that plants tend to "rest". I promise to use houseplant-specific fertilizers at the recommended rate.

I will upsize when needed

Resolution #5 - I will repot based on visible need, rather than some psychic sense that it's time. I will check root balls, looking for 40% or more roots in the soil mass before I consider up-potting. I understand most houseplants perform just fine when somewhat pot-bound. If it's determined that I need to move my plants to a larger pot I will increase the pot diameter in small increments, say, an inch at a time. I will not jump 2" or more in diameter at a time.

Your 2016 resolutions are now sworn and witnessed. You may now lower your hand and spend the New Year enjoying more beautiful houseplants and great chocolate desserts!              

  
 
     

Holiday Gift Giving for Gardeners

A personal observation about gardeners - People that do their own: planting, pruning, weeding, edging, watering and mulching are an amicable lot. Translation: Easy to shop for. So, for those on your holiday gift list you know to be "gardeners" you might consider:

Look good banning the bad rays

Garden hats - The sun is not our skins' best friend, that's a given. There are some great outdoor hats that provide 50+ UPF sun protection and are fashionable, too. Who wouldn't feel good about giving (and receiving) the gift of health? Under $50.

Who isn't charmed by playful plantings?

Topiaries, miniature gardens - Seasonal or otherwise, themed topiaries and miniature gardens are meant to bring a smile and even provide an "out loud" laugh. I'm told the idea of these little gardens is especially intriguing to people who may have downsized and no longer have an outdoor garden. Not to be sexist, but many grandmothers tell me creating and maintaining these gardens is an activity they love to share with their grandchildren. Or, buy the components and challenge your personal creativity. Fun, with a wide range of prices.

Hers Shovel - An ergonomically correct tool that addresses the fact that women tend to use their lower body strength, rather than their torsos, like men. The blade is angled differently than standard shovels and has a large, non-slip step to allow women to maximize their leg strength. The handle is not only cushioned, but designed to allow the gardener to really use both hands and arms for maximum strength. Really smart, too, are sizes: small (less than 5'2"), medium (5'2"-5'7") and large (taller than 5'7"). Makes planting easier, under $90.

Stand back and watch the wonder unfold

Amaryllis - A jack-in-the-beanstalk among flowering plants. Once they're out of their fall dormancy their growth is measurable from one day to the next. Not only is their daily progress fun for all ages to watch, but the incredible trumpet-like flowers truly dazzle in a wide range of colors and forms! What a cool gift to interest kids about plants, too. Under $25.

Capture the best of your soil

Garden sieve - If you inherited a garden where a former owner used gravel mulch, or if your soil just has lots of junk in it, this is indispensable. When you're digging shovel the soil in the sieve and shake it back and forth like you're panning for gold. You are. The soil that falls through is root, rock and clod-free. Makes planting in awful soils a lot simpler for you and your plants. Functional and under $30.

Get the skinny on garden rainfall

Rain gauge - As any meteorologist will tell you rainfall can vary widely within a very small geographic area. You'd be surprised at how much different the figure may be than your local weather report. So, it's nice to go to your gauge after a rain and know how much your garden received, especially during the heat of summer. Accurate info is a great thing. Under $30.    
     
Subscription to a great gardening magazine - My favorite is always Fine Gardening, a Taunton Press publication. Beautiful gardens, great practical information, with lots of applicable local and Midwest content. Inspirational, educational. A year subscription is less than $30, money well spent.

Share the joys of birding

Bird feeder - Birding and gardening are neck and neck as America's favorite hobbies. Why not combine the two and enjoy watching the birds feeding in your garden from your window? The range of feeder choices is mind-boggling. If you're giving a feeder, why not include a bag of good seed (like everything in life, you get what you pay for, so read the ingredients on the "value" seed label carefully before buying)?

Happy stress-free holiday shopping to all!

Keeping Christmas (A)Live

Many of the new permanent (not artificial, please) holiday greens are incredibly realistic. Still, there are those of us that cherish live greens and the fragrance they bring to the holidays. With that desire comes the challenge of keeping those greens fresh as long as possible. Some easy tips to achieve that goal:

The tree - How long are you going to have the tree up? Are you the family that puts it up the day after Thanksgiving and takes it down in January? Or, do you have it up for 2 weeks and then you're off to the Caribbean? Buy accordingly. In order of needle retention, shortest to longest: Balsam fir, white pine, Canaan fir, Fraser and Nordman fir, Noble and Concolor fir.

Buying early, but not decorating for a while? Take it home and store it out of the drying effects of wind and sun. An unheated garage meets those criteria. Don't lose height needlessly by cutting before it goes in water. Myth: Placing it in a bucket of water outdoors that quickly grows cold does nothing for keeping it fresh before stand set-up.  

If you're going to set it up right away your garden center may make the fresh cut for you. Making your own cut? It can be as little as 1/4". Like a cut flower, your tree just needs freshly exposed cells for water uptake. Once that cut is made you have up to six hours (1-2 hours is far better) to get the tree in the stand and in warm water.

Literally the "Last Stand" you'll ever need

Get a stand that holds good quantities of water. Love the Bowlin stands- huge reservoirs and are so heavy and stable they can could go through a tornado and remain standing. Well, almost. I've been unable to uncover any research that proves commercial preservatives make any difference in tree freshness. Forget aspirin, bleach and the home remedies. Do consider spraying an anti-transpirant like Wilt-Pruf on the underside of the needles, letting it dry in the garage before bringing it inside for set-up. This should make a difference.

 Helps to keep trees and greens fresher

So, the tree has a fresh cut and is in the stand. Always add warm water. Be vigilant the first few days. Check a few times a day to make sure the stand never goes dry. Generally the tree will become hydrated and slow its uptake. Still, water levels should be checked at least daily throughout your tree's time indoors. By the way, when the holidays are over think about cutting the branches off and using them as mulch over ground cover or perennials- a great way to recycle.

Spray the underside where moisture is lost

Wreaths and roping - Wilt-Pruf can be used on all greens, whether they're to be used indoors or out. Like the tree, try as best you can (and I do know it can be difficult) to spray the underside of leaves where the water loss actually occurs. Regardless of what precautions you take, placing greens near fireplaces, radiators and vents takes a toll. Know that balsam is wonderfully fragrant, but has a thin needle that dries and sheds indoors. White pine roping will eventually discolor, but needle drop is minimal.

Live plants in pots outdoors - Treat boxwood, Alberta spruce, really any tree or shrub in a pot, as an annual. If it's alive next spring, what a great bonus! Generally, the smaller the volume of soil the more apt it is to freeze and damage the roots irreparably. I recommend 24" (all directions) containers as giving best chances for success. Use Wilt-Pruf and water periodically if plants are under an overhang, or we experience a dry winter.

Live Christmas trees keep on giving

Live Christmas trees indoors - This references the sustainable practice of decorating potted trees indoors for planting after the holidays. Three things you should know:

* Predig the hole before the ground freezes. Store the soil where it won't freeze. Mulch the hole with straw to keep it from freezing before you plant the tree.
* Limit your tree's time indoors. I like 1 or 2 days in an intermediate cool area (like a garage or unheated porch), 5 days maximum inside, 1-2 days back in the cool area again, then plant.
* Know that cute 4-5' evergreen in a pot is a lot of weight to be hoisting back and forth, in and out, up and down stairs. But it is very cool see it years later in the garden and say, "That was our Christmas tree in 2015!"

Happy Holidays, all!                

Bulb Persuasion

By definition, "forcing" something like a delicate little 'Tete-a-Tete' daffodil to bloom out of season sounds mean and heavy-handed. So, rather than "forcing" spring bulbs to bloom in pots indoors ahead of season, let me be kinder, gentler and call it bulb "persuasion". It's actually very easy and rewarding if you know the right procedure.

Bulb varieties that respond well to persuasion

Daffodils, tulips, crocus, hyacinths and the minor bulbs require a prolonged and uninterrupted chilling period of 38-45 degrees F. (called vernalization) for 10-12 weeks to trigger flowering. If you want to successfully capture that same stunning garden effect indoors you need to duplicate this chilling process. If you don't, you'll just have grassy leaves with little or no flower display to show for your efforts.

You should know there's a wealth of ways to achieve a gorgeous result. Some standard methods to persuade bulbs to flower indoors are:  

1. Pot the bulbs, sink the pot in the ground (to keep from freezing), cover with coarse mulch and pull out late winter to bring in and enjoy. Downside: Pots may be frozen in ground and inaccessible when you want them. Pots may be dirty and hard to clean.
2. Pot bulbs, put out in your cold frame. Downside: Seriously, how many of your neighbors have a cold frame or are going to build one for four or five pots of bulbs?
3. Pot, put in the refrigerator. Downside: Pots full of bulbs are space-consuming in the fridge, especially for the 10-12 week minimum needed for chilling. For those folks with a spare Frigidaire loafing in the garage this is a very workable solution.
4. Pot, put the watered bulb pots down in a window well and mulch lightly, with straw, for example. Upside: I've learned that window wells are a largely untapped garden resource, but you have to have access to them. Whether it's winter storage of evergreen bonsai or the aforementioned bulbs, wells are really useful. You're putting things below the frost line, temperature extremes are buffered, too, by the ambient heat from the house and they get natural precipitation (unless plastic dome-covered). Win-win, love it.

Who doesn't love having bulbs (especially hyacinths) in flower in February and March while the garden is still under siege? I readily admit to trying a number of different bulb persuasion techniques over the years and I have a favorite. It's my favorite because it gives consistent uniformity of flowers and no rotten bulbs. I call it the bag-in-the-fridge method.

Dated bags of bulbs ready for 10-12-week chill in fridge

Put the bulbs for persuading in paper, ventilated plastic or mesh bags so there is adequate air circulation around them. Remove ethylene gas-producing fresh fruit and vegetables from the fridge before putting the bags in the crisper. Ethylene adversely affects flower buds in the bulbs and can cause them to abort. If you're like me it's best to put a date on the bulbs so you know exactly when the chilling started. 8-10 weeks is the minimum, 10-12 is better. So, if you're looking forward to winter blooms get them chillin' as early as possible.

Prechilled hyacinth potted up and ready to please

With the bags-in-the-fridge method pull them out at the end of their chilling period and pot them. A standard houseplant potting mix is fine. Whether you use clay or plastic the pots must have drainage holes. Don't do less that six (more is better) daffodils or tulips per pot. Single, double early and Triumph are the best tulip classes for persuading. Because of their large bulb size the very tip of tulips and daffodils should be above the soil line. With their incredible fragrance 3-5 hyacinths per pot makes a wonderful show.

Water thoroughly and place in a cool (60-65 degree F. would be great), dark place in your home while the plants commence rooting. That will generally take several weeks. When green leaf tips start showing in the pot you can move them to more light and warmth. Strong light, if not direct sun, and cooler rooms will give you strong, stocky plants. When the buds start showing color move away from sun and heat to prolong flowering.

Persuading bulbs this winter? It's in the bag...

DIGGING DAHLIAS... LITERALLY

If you grow dahlias October's first frost presents a dilemma. Do you want to try and save the tuberous roots or does that seem like too much trouble? For those in the latter camp take heart. Gorgeous dahlias are inexpensive and a great value for the months of flowers they provide. So, don't feel guilty about tossing and buying new in spring from your favorite garden center or through dahlia specialists.

Try rolling your dahlia tubers in plastic this year!

For those that want to store dahlias it can be a challenging process. There are as many ways to store them as there are people growing them. So, I'm going on record that what I'm sharing is how I'm going to do mine this year. The digging and prep are going to be the same as in the past, but the plastic wrap storage method will be new for me.

The morning after a killing frost  (a freeze is more dangerous, making harvest a more urgent task) I like to get out and cut the blackening foliage back leaving only a 5-6" stem above the ground. This gives you a "handle" to use. Assuming daytime temperatures moderate after frost leave the plants in the ground for a week to "cure" before digging. This will put them in a state where eyes (next year's buds on the neck of the tubers) start swelling and (I'm told) the tubers will store better.

Keep big honkin' tuber mass intact when digging up

When you're ready to harvest dig with a spade or a fork starting at least 6-8" away from the stem. The single tuber you planted this spring will now be a big honkin' mass of tubers that you don't want to slice through. Dig all the way around, loosening the soil and lifting the plant gently. Don't pull it out by the stem!

Once you've lifted the root system from the ground many growers recommend gently washing soil off. Truthfully, I'm not crazy about the idea of wetting tubers, so I don't. I try to physically remove as much soil as possible with my hands (yep, it's tedious, but I don't have hundreds to do) without snapping off tubers. Then I turn them upside down on plastic in the garage (out of sun and wind) for a day to let the hollow stems drain. This also allows the tuber surfaces to dry and any remaining soil to be removed before storing. By the way, I personally omit a fungicide treatment, but you may want to do that before storage.

The "How do I physically store them?" part is where the process can go south in a hurry. The problem is keeping tubers from becoming too: wet, dry, hot or cold during the five or more months of winter storage indoors. As Charlie Brown used to say, "Arrrr-ggg-hhhhh." So, Tony is going to use the "plastic wrap method" of dahlia storage that I read about years ago, but never tried.

Separate tubers with "eyes", or buds, for next year

Lay down plastic, roll each tuber once, then add another

How is this going to work (fingers crossed)? Hopefully, I'm going to be able to see the little baby eyes swelling already this fall. I'll cut eye-bearing tubers from the clump. Remember, each tuber has to have an eye to grow next year. I'm going to get a long stretch of plastic wrap and lay it out flat. The first tuber is rolled until it is covered with one thickness of wrap. I'll place a second one in the fold of the first (not touching each other) and roll it over once, too. Then a third and maybe a fourth will be added all in the same stretch of wrap. I'll fold over the ends, secure with tape and write the variety name on the outside. Each variety will be a separate wrap group.

These will be placed in a box and I'll try to find a dark spot where the temps will stay between 40-50 F. Dahlias in storage don't want warmer or colder than that. I like the idea of the plastic wrap treatment since it:

* Takes less storage space
* Eliminates storage media (peat, sand, wood shavings, vermiculite) and whether it's too wet or dry
* You can see at a glance if any of the tubers are problematic in storage and need to be removed

So, dahlia enthusiasts, are you pitching or storing this fall?